On The Wire Podcast we’ve mentioned before that there are two kinds of Firewire employees. Robert is in the first group.
Even with the opportunity to surf many boards in rotation from Slater Designs, Rob Machado and more, he sticks to just one, and he’s got a few reasons why.
When he came in to work on a recent morning with a fun looking batch of photos from his A.M. session up the road from Firewire, we decided it was time to get his thoughts on the Timbertek Evo he’s been surfing for an entire year with only occasional sessions on a Slater Designs Omni.
Robert, You work at Firewire and you can surf whatever boards you want. A lot of us here surf different boards all the time. But you’ve basically surfed just one board for an entire year. Why?
Because it’s the best all around board for North County San Diego, I feel like. We don’t get enough hollow waves until these south swells pickup, and that’s when I’ll hop on the Omni. But basically I’ll bring an Evo to the beach every day, and I’ll have a good session every time I surf.
What were you surfing most of the time before you had an EVO?
I was switching boards around too much and it was hurting my surfing. Then I stuck to the gun on that Timbertek Evo because I came from a skateboarding background and the straight line outline of the EVO feels similar to me in some way, I feel like I can keep it under my body more while I’m surfing because it’s so short, with such straight rails.
What fins do you like?
I was surfing the John John Florence fins as a thruster. I tried it as a quad too. But for this board I feel like you gain so much speed on it naturally, you just don’t need a quad. And a thruster set makes it pivot well. So I say stick to thruster. My favorite fins right now are the Futures F4 Control Series.
For everyone reading who doesn’t live in North County San Diego, how do you describe the waves around here?
Well it’s a little different everyday because the sandbars are different everyday. You get hollow waves but then it shifts to mushy and back to hollow. There will be fat sections that you have to get past, but then there will be a section you can go top to bottom on. It’s always different, and it’s really fun.
The EVO is made in both LFT and Timbertek. What do you like more about Timbertek?
For some reason, the shortness of the EVO works well with the Timbertek I think. You know, the Spitfire’s and stuff, they just don’t flex well enough I think, for me, when they’re built in Timbertek. But I think the shortness of the EVO, it just makes it work because of the stiffness it adds to the shape.
What do the waves need to be like before you get on an Omni?
It needs to be really hollow and fast. Because that tail on the EVO, for example when you want to get down the line fast becuase the lip is pitching hard in front of you, over your head, you’re dropping into the wave at a sideways angle kind of, and the tail is too wide for that. So you need that Omni tail to kind of dig in and keep going when it’s big and steep. The Omni still feels very skatey to me though.
I think I”ve heard you say before that you like how wide the nose is on the EVO, right?
Yeah, on something that’s this wide in front of the board at the nose, think about how easy it is to turn around when you land an air reverse, or after you slide out your board. It’s very easy to keep under your feet when you’re front foot is on that wide nose, compared to trying to keep your front foot on a conventional shortboard nose thats super narrow. On the Evo, the nose and tail width are almost identical.