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Best design for wind affected choppy messy surf

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  • #16
    Yep!! Surley did add weight to Taj's boards during Bells the year he won in 2007. His boards were too light at 2.250g and were a bit skittery off the top. The team engineered an aluminum capsule about 40mm in dia and I flew down that night, drill and hole saw in hand. Next day we videoed him at bird rock to see the problem, and then I drilled a hole in the deck of his board about 200mm from the nose...Right through with a hole cutter! He was freaking!... Anyway I added slivers of lead until the board weighed 2400g which created extra "swing weight" in the nose of his board eliminating chatter off the top and enhancing hold and directional stability through turns. He was blown away how much better it went and went on to win his first Bell!
    So...What does this mean to you? The simplest way to "stabilize" your board in choppy conditions is to "add weight" in the nose area. The best way to do this is go to the local golf shop and buy some lead tape used to weight up shafts and or club heads. Then stick this on in the nose area between about 200 to 400mm from the nose. Even if you gaffa tape over the lead strips to hold it in place. Add between 100 and 200g and you will notice the difference for sure.


    • #17
      Hi guys,

      I had posted this note in a related forum, but thought I'd double up here to see about responses, etc. After all, the board shop is across the street, the waves are up, and, well, I've got the fever.

      Here's the re-post, trying to find the right board for weak mushy days (and something that is NOT a longboard):

      My specs are: Int / Adv surfer, 50 yrs old, pretty top condition, athletically, and I weigh 153 lbs naked and wet. I'm surfing Long Island waters off of NYC, that means most of the year in some kind of rubber; 3/2 in summer up to 6mm in winter. What's that, an additional 10 lbs?

      My calculations from the Volumator seem to suggest the following sizes in the two boards I am perv'ing for:

      5'3" Baked Potato
      5'2" or 5'4" Sweet Po

      I would love to hear what you experienced-with-Firewire-board-owner guys think on this subject. Here's what I'd love from this board *We get lots of days with sloppy, weak, gutless, unambitious, slothful surf. Still, a guy's got to paddle out, right? I'd like to *catch* these waves, and then, once up, I prefer to make turns close to what resembles a pocket, as opposed to gliding down what looks like a line (hence my interest in the slightly tuned Baked jobbie). The thing I do want to avoid is feeling like I am on something with too much float and a lack of responsiveness.

      Here's the current quiver, as FYI:
      Bing Dharma / 5'6" (quad, simmons-esque, superfun; loves an actual wave)
      Bonzer Octafish / 5'10" (five-fin Campbell bros crazy thing; loves an actual wave AND offshore winds)
      Chris Birch Quad Egg / 6'6" (surfs anything, like any good egg will do)
      Chris Birch Retro Thruster / 6'2" (MR-style shortboard with tons of float; super in good surf and a hurricane or two)
      Ricky Carroll Tuned Rocket Fish / 6'6" (quad / thruster boxes; step-up board for BIG days)

      What's missing? A true floaty fish for messing around and catching waves on crappy days.

      I am inclining towards the 5'3" Baked Potato ...OR... the 5'4" Sweet Potato. Please opine, and thanks kindly.


      • #18
        Hey mate,

        First things
        Oh c'mon...Pleeeaaaassseee!! Naked and wet? Kiddies come on this forum you know !!!

        hey, You are pretty close to me in weight and age, and you have a damm impressive quiver.

        My take is, with the fact that you have so much to choose from and that to a looking to fill a niche, I'd go for the 5'4" Sweet Potato. This board takes you up down and all over the shop when there id "something that resembles a pocket". I ride a 5'2 in the bath. When you are frigid (I am sure your wife accuses you of that) with an extra 10 lbs the 5'4" would be perfect. I have ridden up to the 5'6" which was still insane but obviously not as vertical.

        Hope that helps.
        Oh, and just to spoil that flow of info...The baked Potato would be just a tad more of a pocket rocket, but I'd still go with the SP due to the boards you already have.